Install A Water Purifier, Install A Water Filter, Water Filter Installation, Replace A Cartridge

Under Counter Systems

The water purifier is placed under the sink. A "saddle valve" (also called a "needle valve") assembly is attached to the cold water line by wrapping it around the line and bolting it in place.

Then the small bar that serves as a handle for opening and shutting the valve is turned clockwise to penetrate the cold water line with the needle, through which the water will be drawn. Once the line is pierced, the valve can be opened or shut by turning the little handle one way or the other.

A 1/4" hose is to be connected to the saddle valve at one end and to the inlet of the system at the other end. Remove the nut (a threaded piece with a hole in it) from the saddle valve. Insert the hose through the hole in the nut with the threaded end toward the end of the hose.

A small brass (or plastic) collar is placed around the hose at this end with the tapered end of the collar toward the connection point. Then a metal (or plastic) insert may be pushed into the end of the hose. The collar and insert help hold the hose in place. Then the nut is screwed in place. Be sure to make it tight so there is no leakage.

The inlet and outlet hoses are easily connected to the unit with "John Quest" fittings. Just insert the hose in the opening of the fitting, and you're done! The hose will be held in place by the fitting.

To remove a hose (eg., for replacement when the time comes), hold down the collet (the little ring with "teeth") using your fingernail and pull out the hose.

A faucet is provided for installation on the countertop. It requires about a 1/2 inch hole in the sink top, usually metal. Many people simply replace a rarely used sprayer, using the hole that is already there for that. Otherwise a small hole about 1/2 inch in diameter can be drilled for mounting the faucet.

There are washers and a nut to fasten the faucet in place. It may take two people to do this. One holds the faucet on top, while the other tightens the nut with a wrench from under the sink.

The outlet hose for connecting the faucet to the outlet of the water system may be attached to the faucet already. If not the connection is made in the same way as described above for connecting the inlet hose to the saddle valve.

Cartridge Replacement

With new systems, the cartridges usually come already inserted in the unit.

After a year to a year and a half, depending on consumption and quality of the source water, it will be time to change a cartridge.

A housing is opened by grasping the long part, the cylinder, with one hand while holding the base (or the mounting bracket) with the other; then unscrew it. If you are holding the unit with the base down, turn the cylinder counterclockwise; if the base is at the top, turn the cylinder clockwise. If the cylinder is stuck, you can use a hard plastic wrench made for the purpose, which likely came with your unit.

To replace a cartridge, remove the old cartridge from the housing. Check to see the location of any remaining rubber gaskets. If one has remained attached at the far end of the cylinder, it will take a long narrow object such as needle nosed pliers or a knife to dislodge it. A gasket left stuck in the base is easily pulled off.

Each cartridge should be seated onto the circular post inside of the base of the housing (where the water flows in and out). The other end of the cartridge then will be fitted on the circular post at the enclosed far end of the cylinder (the long portion of the housing).

Place the cartridge in either the cylinder or on the base. Once the cartridge is seated, reattach the cylinder to the base, making sure that the cartridge is aligned on the circular posts at each end, and that the O-ring is in place at the open end of the cylinder for a good seal. Keep the O-ring lubricated for prolonged life. (The company suggests petroleum jelly. Olive oil could also be used.)

If the direction of flow through the cartridge is marked, the water flows in from the base, so insert the cartridge appropriately. Some of our cartridges such as the remineralizing alkalizers flow in either direction.

Cartridge Location

With a single unit there is only one housing, so no possible confusion about cartridge location.

In a "Dual" or "Triple" system, it is normally the Solid Carbon Block cartridge that goes in the first housing where the water enters the system.

The solid carbon cartridge should be changed in about a year.

If the carbon is exposed, avoid touching the surface of the carbon with bare hands. Handle the cartridge by grasping the plastic ends. Use a clean cloth or clean plastic wrap or glove if it is necessary to grasp the sides. (Reason: You want to avoid leaving bacteria on the carbon's surface from the hands. The bacteria are too large to get through to the inside of the filter, but if a colony grows on the carbon's surface, it can produce some toxins.)

The center of the solid carbon block cartridge is hollow, and it is open at both ends. Here the water will come into the outer edges of the housing and be forced through the surface of the filter into the center, and then flow out of the base end of the housing to the outflow spout or faucet.

Multi-Stage Cartridge

The multi-stage cartridge should be replaced after a year or two, depending on the type, the level of consumption and the quality of the source water.

Flow Sequence

The sequence of cartridges depends on the type of system. Here are the most common units described by the order of cartridges from inlet to outlet:

Solid Carbon Block ~ Multi-Stage Cartridge (contains Redox & Carbon, the fluoride removal cartridge also contains alumina) (Dual System)
Sediment filter ~ Solid Carbon Block ~ Multi-Stage (Sediment Triple System)
Solid Carbon Block ~ Fluoride Multi-Stage ~ Remineralizing Alkalizer / Ionizer (Fluoride Removal Triple System)

NOTES:

~ Run water through the system for a minute or so to clear out any fine powder that may be in a new cartridge. There may be dust remaining from the processing of the media. It is not harmful, and will be washed out in just a minute.

~ Avoid running hot water through carbon. It can significantly shorten the useful life of the carbon.

~ Tiny microscopic air bubbles are released from a solid carbon block until all the carbon has been saturated with water. These air bubbles may give the appearance of cloudiness in the water drawn, but are no cause for alarm. If this cloudiness occurs, it usually subsides within a few days.

~ The external surface of an exposed solid carbon block cartridge may be cleaned periodically with a clean sterile toothbrush and hot water. This may modestly extend its useful life. Be sure to avoid touching the surface with the hands to prevent bacterial contamination. The cartridge may be grasped by the plastic caps at either end, and sterile gloves may also be used.

Reverse Osmosis Units

Counter Top System

Our countertop RO unit has an inlet hose with a "diverter" on one end that connects to the faucet of the kitchen sink. The normal aerator already on your faucet is replaced with the new diverter which has a built-in aerator of its own.

The threads on a kitchen sink faucet can vary, so thread adaptors are provided with your unit. Simply unscrew the current aerator and screw on the diverter, using a thread adaptor if necessary. Tighten enough to prevent leakage from the diverter when the water is turned on.

The RO unit is placed at the side of the sink, so the attached spout dispenses the water over the sink. There is a small pin on the diverter that is used to open the valve inside and route COLD WATER to the unit.

DO NOT RUN HOT WATER THROUGH THE SYSTEM. Hot water can damage and shorten the life of some of the media.

Once the hook ups are made, remove the red stopper from the end of the flush water hose. This may require removing the blue collar first, then restoring the collar. Before collecting water, run at least a quart (or a liter) of water down the drain to clear out any fines (dust) from the media.

It may take a while for all of the media in the cartridges to become saturated. The resultant water may vary in taste and appearance during this period.

Collect the pure water from the faucet in a clean food grade bottle or jug for later use. Glass or ceramic material is preferable to plastic. The toxin laden flush water must not be consumed or used on house plants. It might be usable as "work water" for washing the floor or the car, but for the most part it goes down the drain. This flushing is necessary to continuously clear contaminants from the surface of the membrane.

Reverse osmosis is a slow process. The length of time to produce pure water may vary. It depends in large part on the source water pressure.

There could gradually be some scale build-up in the diverter. If the diverter pin begins to stick due to scale, just disconnect the whole diverter assembly, and soak it in some white vinegar to dissolve the scale.

Under Counter RO System

The under counter RO is placed under the sink. A "saddle valve" (also called a "needle valve") assembly is attached to the cold water line by wrapping it around the line and bolting it in place.

If there is a stopper in the end of a hose, remove it. The inlet and outlet hoses are easily connected to the unit with the provided fittings. The hose will be held in place by the fitting.

To remove a hose (eg., for replacement when the time comes), hold down the collet (the little ring with "teeth") using your fingernail and pull out the hose.

There are washers and a nut to fasten the faucet in place. It may take two people to do this. One holds the faucet on top, while the other tightens the nut with a wrench from under the sink.

The outlet hose for connecting the faucet to the outlet of the water tank may be attached to the tank already. If not the connection is made in the same way as described above for connecting the inlet hose to the saddle valve.

There is a flush water hose to be inserted into the drain pipe. The toxin laden flush water must not be consumed or used on house plants. This flushing is necessary to continuously clear contaminants from the surface of the membrane.

DO NOT RUN HOT WATER THROUGH THE SYSTEM. Hot water can damage and shorten the life of some of the media.

Before using water, empty the tank down the drain to clear out any fines (dust) from the media.

It may take a while for all of the media in the cartridges to become saturated. The resultant water may vary in taste and appearance during this period.

Reverse osmosis is a slow process. The length of time to produce pure water may vary. It depends in large part on the source water pressure.

Shower Units

To install a shower filter unit, first remove the shower head by unscrewing it from the shower arm, (the pipe that comes out from the wall of the shower). One end of the shower unit has internal threads, which will screw onto the threaded permanent shower arm pipe. Then the shower head is screwed onto the other side of the shower filter that has external threads.

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN ANY OF THESE CONNECTIONS. Tighten to just the beginning of snugness. Plumbers tape can be wrapped around the inside threads of each connection to prevent leakage, if needed.

Whole House Units

Click here to read the installation manual for our whole house units.

Click here to read the repacking instructions for our whole house units.

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Water System Installation & Maintenance

Counter Top Units ~ Under Counter Units

Shower Units ~ Whole House Units